15 March 2005: Indian Update

Hi all,

Hope you're all really well, and managing to cope in my absence :^)
It's been a few weeks in India & the learning curve is still pretty steep, but we're still having a great time & trying not to stay too cynical despite all the touts/scam merchants.

http://www.whereismark.fotopic.net/c450282.html
(Weeks 2-4)

After flying in to Cochin, we headed South using India's manic bus service to Alleppey, where we had lunch with the locals in the Indian Coffee House (35 rupees or 40 pence for two main meals) & then headed off to hire a Kettuvallam (houseboat, comlete with captain, cook & mechanic) for an 2 day trip along the backwaters. Very relaxing, and it felt really special to be taken to the cook's home & village. Afterwards, we caught the fast ferry South to Amritapuri to help out (seva - selfless service) at the Ashram where we were lucky enough to meet (Saint) Amma who had cancelled her tour of India due to the Tsunami. Stayed for a week to help out as wll as try meditation+yoga, and it was a very strange experience. Far too much to relate here. But the tame eagles walking about the dining hall were thriling. And many of the varied people there were fantastically interesting to talk to. But atmosphere at the ashram promotes personal spiritual devolopment rather than conversation.

So afterwards we need something a bit more conventional & headed for the beach at Varkala. The rip tide was pretty powerful, stealing my sunglasses & Martin's goggles too. But if you life body-surfing onto the beach, staying in bamboo huts, watching sunsets, beach-cricket & films, and having fresh fish then its a great way to spend a week.

We quickly visited the "undeveloped" coastline of Bekal, an overnight train-ride away and then headed to Madikeri for trekking amongst the lush tea, coffee, pepper, pineapple, cardamon and "jack" fruit plantations + huge ants & bees. It's spring here so the Robusta coffee plants are in blossom. However it's also barbarously hot here, so only mad dogs & Englishmen go trekking in the midday sun up Tadiyendamol (1750m).

After 5 days in Madikeri, recovering from the rigours of trekking by watching Wales trounce Scotland at rugby in the 6 Nations, we headed off or Sera near Bylakuppe. It's home to 2 Tibetean Monasteries (one of 12 in India) and was a compleet change of culture from India. Rather than worrying what the "real" cost of food & richshaws was (& as an Indian put it to me, worrying about being cheated), the monks were very straightforward & very friendly. And these guys know how to debate! The artwork they've produced here (saving their hertitage from the migrations from Tibet) is awesoem. But we had to move on & head to to big city of Mysore - where we were seen as a walking dollar sign again.

Anyway, I have to go as it's late & we're o a sightseeing tour of the palaces/temples etc.. tomorrow. I hope you're all tremendously well & bearing up to the cold snap in the UK. Keep in touch & I'l try to email again in another 3-4 weeks,

Mark