22 April 2005: North Indian Summer

Hi folks,

Hope you're getting ready for the English summer, whilst it's 40 degrees out here on the edge of the desert in Western Rajasthan.

It's been a while since I posted the last photos of me & Martin enjoying a meal in Mysore, but what the photo doesn't show was that the very next day we had "Mysore" belly for the next 48hours. Probably inevitable that it would happen at some point, but no fun at all. We found Mysore to be a vibrant city with a wide range of temples, palaces & conmen - and we took in all of these whilst we were there. The main palace was apparently designed by a Glaswegian, and a lot of the stained glass & steel was imported from there (shipped & then carried inland by elephant). The royal family also liked all their portraits to have "eyes that follow you around the room". Slightly spooky.

After Mysore we went up to Hampi, the ancient capitol of a 15th century civilisation that ruled most of Southern India. The capitol was sited in a huge boulder field, which is why it's a mecca for people like us who go bouldering (low-level climbing). However one day their enemies combined & destroyed their empire, leaving hundred (thousands) of temples, bazaars & buildings. It's a truly astonishing place. And Happy Holy (a "color" festival where the locals run around & plaster everyone with paints) was a great time to be there - although Martin had to leave his underwear behind after it was taken over by chipmunks!

From there we took a "sleeper" bus (no-one could possibly have slept on those roads) to Gokarna & Om Beach in Northern Karnataka to take in the beach for a few days, before going to Arambol Beach in Goa to take in another beach. Sometimes life's a beach, and you've got to go with the flow. We've tended to head to the places that other travellers have recommended along the way.

Then it's been time to do some serious traveling North, first arriving at Bombay (Mumbai) & the Gateway to India. This was a great city to visit on a Sunday, as everybody was either in the park playing cricket or sitting on Chowpatty Beach watching the world go by. A really friendly city to visit. We traveled overnight to Pushkar in Rajasthan (the trains tend take a long time but cover much less distance than in the UK) where I studied Yoga with Yogis the Yoga master, and Martin suffered with Flu. I liked many things about Pushkar, but as with many places in India it assaults the senses & there were many things I didn't like. But eventually you adapt, & seeing motorbikes on the footpath swerving to avoid the dogs, boars & cattle started to seem normal.

Finally we headed into the Desert of West Rajasthan to see the Golden City of Jaisalmer & go for a 4-day camel-trek in the desert. The terrain was very varied & surprisingly full of life. It's a desert but not a wilderness. But sleeping on sand-dunes, being cooked for on open fires & watching the stars in a warm climate was a big change from damp nights camping in the British climate! The camels were huge, ungainly & very friendly... but I'm not sure I want one as a pet yet.

http://www.whereismark.fotopic.net/c474486.html (Weeks 5-8)

I'd better go & stop talking your ears off, but I hope everyone is doing really well out there & I'll try & email again in a month or so as we'll be heading into Nepal to go trekking. Let me know how you are when you can. Live long & prosper,

Mark